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Floor should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure good color and shade mixture.
Be attentive to staggering the ends of boards at least 6" (Figure 1), when possible, in adjacent rows. This will help ensure a more favorable overall appearance of the floor.
Large spans in areas of high humidity may require the addition of internal or field expansion. This can be accomplished by using spacers, such as small washers, every 10-20 rows inserted above the tongue and removed after several adjoining rows have been fastened.

Installation parallel to the longest wall is recommended for best visual effects, however, the floor should be installed perpendicular to the flooring joists (Figure 2) unless subfloor has been reinforced to reduce subfloor sagging.

If a moisture retardant material is to be used, such as Laminated Rosin Paper (Figure 3), install this material before proceeding, lapping joints 6" and stapling if necessary.

Measure the width of the product being installed. For random or alternate width products, use the widest plank for the first row.

Using this measurement, in at least two places, measure out equal distance from the starting wall and 12" - 18" from the corners and snap a chalk line (Figure 4).

NOTE: Always end glue wide width (4" or more) planks with a good construction adhesive.

Use the longest, straightest boards available for the first tow rows. Align tongue of first row on chalk line or parallel to chalk line (Figure 5). The groove should be facing the starting wall. Pre-drill the nail holes ½" from back (groove) edge, 1-2" from each end, and at 6" intervals at a 45° angle down through the nailing "pocket" on top of the tongue.

Face-nail the groove side where pre-drilled. When complete, blind-nail at a 45° angle through the tongue of the first row. Fasten using 6 or 8d nails. Countersink nails to ensure flush engagement of groove. Avoid bruising the wood by using a nail set to drive the nails the last ¼" into the tongue. Continue blind-nailing using this method with following rows until stapler or nailer can be used.

End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered a minimum of 6" to ensure a more favorable overall appearance.

Beginning rows may be blind-nailed where clearance allows using a pneumatic finish nailer with 15 gauge, 1½" (minimum) nails.

"Dry" lay materials to cover approximately 2/3 of the room (Figure 3). Begin dry laying approximately 6" from the edge of the previously installed rows. Avoid pulling boards too tightly together on the sides, as they must move freely when fastening begins.

Mark the final board in each row and cut to proper length allowing for expansion. Visually inspect flooring, setting aside boards that need to have natural character flaws cut out. Use these boards for starting and finishing row after objectonable characteristics have been removed.

Fasten a sacrificial board to the floor. Check for surface damage, air pressure damage, tongue damage, etc. before proceeding. Make all adjustments and corrections before installation begins. Once proper adjustments have been made, remove and destory the board.

Begin installation with several rows at a time (Figure 6), fastening each board with at least two fasteners, 8-10" apart and 2-3" from the ends (to avoid splitting). Tighten boards as necessary to reduce gaps before fastening.

End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered 6" (Figure 1) when possible to ensure a more favorable overall appearance.

The last 1 - 2 rows will need to be face-nailed where clearance does not permit blind nailing with stapler or brad nailer. Pre-drill and face-nail on the tongue side following the nailing pattern used for the first row.

Rip final row to fit and face-nail. If the final row is less than 1" in width, it should first be glued to the previous uninstalled row and the two joined units should be face-nailed as one.

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Finishing/Refinishing